The new route is shorter and will save as much as $100m (US) per year in fuel costs.  Since the international arm of Qantas has been running at a loss, the savings are critically important.  Though, with a loss of $253m (US) reported in August 2012, the fuel savings alone will not be enough to bring them back into the black.  (An order for 35 Boeing 787 Dreamliners was cancelled back in August in the name of cost-cutting, despite the promised fuel efficiency improvement of those aircraft.)

Singapore vs Dubai : Freedoms and human rights

Both countries have very specific views as to what is permissible and choose to regulate aspects of life that are unregulated in most Western countries.  The change in hub does not therefore represent a significant change for passengers stopping over during their journey:  No drugs, no medicines, no public display of affection, and keep your mouth shut.  But you can chew gum in Dubai, except on public transport where it will cost you a Dh 100 fine.

New alliance

The old alliance with British Airways has been abandoned in favour of a new deal with Emirates.  Emirates is owned by the government of Dubai and backed by the royal family, and is therefore in a position to offer “sweeteners” to Qantas. Qantas have also had to concede certain routes to Emirates: they will no longer fly to Frankfurt, for example.

As alliance partners, Qantas will align its sales, flight schedules and pricing with Emirates.  One gets the distinct impression that Qantas is the junior partner in the alliance as they appear to give away more than they gain.

No pork

For the stated reason of cultural sensitivity Qantas is abandoning its own social and culinary traditions by eliminating pork from all flights that fly to, from, or via Dubai.  (A similar arrangement is already in place for flights to Indonesia.)  No alcohol will be used in food preparation.

Qantas continue to serve alcohol on board, as indeed does Emirates.  (Precious few airlines, even those that pointedly serve only 100% halal food, are completely “dry”.)

While the Qantas food loaded at Dubai can be expected to be halal, food loaded at other places, while not containing pork, may not necessarily have been subjected to Islamic slaughter and passengers desiring halal meals should still specify this when booking.

Passengers flying between Europe and Australia who desire tasty bacon, eisbein, ribs or other delicious pork products should book with a different airline.

Consequently, it is recommended to leave all but absolutely essential medicines at home if you are going to or via Dubai, even as a transit passenger.  In some cases the consequences are pretty severe, but many other people have been inconvenienced to the extent of being detained for some hours before being released.  One might say “no harm done”, unless of course, it happens to you.  A few hours of detention by customs officials is not at all pleasant anywhere in the world, but all the more so if people are shouting at you in a language that you do not understand.

The UAE uses highly sensitive equipment to search for the slightest trace of drugs.

Some of the horror stories

Some of the cases that have been reported by the BBC:

• Keith Brown: Four-year jail term for possession of 0.003g of cannabis, stuck to the bottom of his shoe
• Robert Dalton: On trial for alleged possession of 0.03g of cannabis
• An un-named 20-year-old: On trial for alleged possession of 0.02g of cannabis
• Tracy Wilkinson: Held in custody for eight weeks for possession of a painkiller containing codeine (prescribed for back pains) before release
• Swiss national: Four-year jail term after three poppy seeds found on his clothes
• Cat Le-Huy was arrested in Dubai for carrying Melatonin jet-lag tablets, which are sold over the counter in the US and Dubai.

Extent of the problem

Carrying more than 10 paracetamol tablets has been known to cause trouble at Dubai customs.  (“Trouble” meaning being detained, strip searched and interrogated.  It’s best avoided.)  Even such traveller’s basics such as Lomotil are banned!

Catherine Wolthuizen, chief executive of Fair Trials International, said Dubai customs authorities were using highly sensitive new equipment to conduct thorough searches on travellers.

“So many people now travel to Dubai and, as we’re seeing, many have no idea what risks they’re taking or their vulnerability to this very strict approach,” she said.   “If they find any amount – no matter how minute – it will be enough to attract a mandatory four-year prison sentence.

“What many travellers may not realise is that they can be deemed to be in possession of such banned substances if they can be detected in their urine or bloodstream, or even in tiny, trace amounts on their person.”

Strict Islamic principles

“Dubai’s culture is rooted in Islam, providing a strength and inspiration that touches all aspects of everyday life.” — Dubai Government web site.

Even international web sites promoting drugs banned in Dubai are blocked.  The Ministry of health coordinates with the Telecommunications Regulatory Authority to block them.

So what sorts of drugs are banned?  Dr. Amin Hussein Al Amiri, Assistant Undersecretary for Medical Practices and Licenses gives the official perspective that these are “especially weight loss, body building, hormones, sexual stimulants and other unapproved medicines”.  In reality, any medication could cause you problems.

No official list available

No list of banned or restricted substances is available from UAE embassies, web sites or other official UAE sources!  That makes compliance considerably harder and leads some to the conclusion that the intention is to catch people out rather than to keep the country drug-free.

Furthermore, in addition to a banned list, the Dubai customs authorities also reportedly are using an “approved” list.  A particular medicine may not be on the banned list, but if it is not yet on the approved list then you will still be treated as a criminal suspect!

Take lots of documentation for life-sustaining medication

If you absolutely must take medication with you, because it keeps you alive, then ensure that you have as much documentation as possible.  Not only should you have a prescription to cover each medicine, the doctor should explain in a letter what the purpose of each drug is.  Get letters from specialists and hospitals.  Have it authenticated by the local UAE embassy well ahead of your travel date.

In practice, it is not safe to take any medicines with you to Dubai.  Passengers on aircraft diverted to Dubai, or in transit, who did not expect to pass through customs have been arrested and spent time in jail, even when in possession of valid prescriptions.

Fair Trials International list of banned or restricted substances

Fair Trials International has compiled an unofficial list of controlled medicines for Dubai and the UAE.  This is based in part on the schedules to the UAE Federal law No. 14 of 1995, and the General Authority for Health Services Guide to the Management of Controlled Drugs in the Private Sector, March 2007

Narcotics

Banned outright.  May not be imported into UAE. Possession of these drugs, with or without a prescription, may lead to a prison sentence. In addition to the medications listed below, this category includes cannabis, cocaine and opiates, from heroin to poppy seeds (the kind used in everyday baking).

Listed narcotics (active ingredients):
Alfentanil, Amphetamine, Buprenorphone, Codeine, Fentanyl, Ketamine, Methadone, Methyphenidate, Morphine, Pentazocine, Pethidine, Remifentanil, Sufentanil

Listed narcotics (some trade names):
Ketalar, Physeptone, Ritalin, Sosegon, Subutex, Ultiva

Class A Psychotropics

These are drugs for which a prescription must be held. The more verifying paperwork from the authorising doctor which can accompany any drug in this category, the better. In UAE, they can only be dispensed upon production of a registered (health authority-approved) prescription. They include some common sleeping tablets, painkillers, anti-depressants and hormone replacement therapy

Listed Class A Psychotropics (active ingredients):
Acitretin, Alprazolam, Aripiprazole, Bromazepam, Buprenorphine , Butorphanol, Chlopromazine, Chlordiazepoxide, Clobazam, Clonazepam, Clorazepate, Diazepam, Dihydrocodeine, Droperidol, Flumazenil, Flupentixol, Fluphenazine, Haloperidol, Isotretinoin, Lorazepam, Medazepam, Mephenoxalone, Midazolam, Misoprostol, Nalbuphine, Olanzapine, Phenobarbitone, Pimozide, Prazepam, Prochlorperazine, Propofol, Prostaglandin, Quetiapine, Risperidone, Sulpiride, Sultopride, Temazepam, Thiopentone, Tiapride, Tramadol, Trfluoperazine, Zaleplon, Ziprasidone, Zolpidem, Zuclopenhtixol

 Listed Class A Psychotropics (some trade names):
Abilify, Anexate, Arthrotec, Ativan, Barnetil, Buccastem, Clopixol, Cytotec, Deanxit, Dehydrobenzperidol, Demetrin, DHC continues, Dialag, Diapam, Diprivan, Dogmatil, Dormicum, Dorsilon, Frisium, Gardinal, Genprid, Haldol, Intraval, Largactil, Lexotanil, Limbitrol, Neotigason, Nobrium, Noctran, Nubain, Orap, Prolixin, Propess, Risperdal, Rivotril, Serenace, Seroquel, Sonata, Stadol, Stelazine, Stemetil, Stesolid, Stilnox, Tekam, Temgesic, Tiapridal, Tramal, Tramundin, Tranxene, Valium, Xanax, Zaldiar, Zeldox, Zyprexa

Class B Controlled medicines

Possession of these drugs must be accompanied by a prescription. Many of these drugs are available over-the-counter in other countries (or even in Dubai!) and travellers to or through UAE should ensure they obtain a prescription before carrying any of these drugs to that country. They include many common cold and cough remedies.

Class B Controlled medicines (active ingredients):
Amitriptyline, Baclofen, Benzhexol, Biperiden, Buspirone, Carisoprodol, Citalopram, Clomipramine, Codeine, Cyclobenzaprine, Dextromethorphan, Diphenoxylate, Dotheipin, Duloxetine, Escitalopram, Estradiol, Ethinylestradiol, Etonogestrel, Fluoxetine, Flupenthixol, Fluvoxamine, Imapramine, Isotretonin, Lithium Carbonate, Maprotiline, Menotrophin, Meserolone, Methocarbomol, Mianserin, Milnacipran, Minaprine, Mirtazapine, Moclobemide, Naltrexone, Nandrolone, Nefazodone, Norethisterone, Norethisterone, Norgetrol, Noscapine, Octreotide, Oestradiol, Opipramol, Orphenadrine, Oseltamivir, Oxazepam, Paroxetine, Pholcodine, Pimecrolimus, Procyclidine, Propoxyphene (with paracetemol), Pyrisuccideanol, Reboxetine, Sertraline, Somatrophine, Testosterone, Ticlopidine, Tizanidine, Tretinoin, Trimipramine, Vecuronium, Venlafaxine

Class B Controlled medicines (some trade names):
123 Cold, Actifed Compound, Actifed DM, Activelle, Adol Cold, Adol Compound, Adumbran, Akineton, Algaphan, Anafranil, Andriol, Artane, Athymil, Aurorix, Benxtrone, Bepro, Broncholar, Broncholar forte, Bronchophane, Buspar, Cancolite, Cantor, Cipralex, Cipram, Climen, Codaphen, Codaphen plus, Codilar, Codipront, Codis, Coldex-dD, Cymbalta, Deca durabolin, Decutan, Dextrocuf, Dextrolag, Diarsed, Diaxine, Dicton, Distalgesic, Edronax, Efexor, Elidel, Estracomb, Estrofem, Faverin, Femoston, Flexiban, Flozak, Fluanxol, Flumed DM adult, Fluneurin, Fluoxone, Fluran, Flutin, Fluxetyl, Genotropin, Insidon, Intard, Ixel, Kafosed, Kemadrin, Kliogest, Lagaflex, Linz, Lioresal, Lomotil, Ludiomil, Menogen, Muscadol, Myogesic, Noracod, Norcuron, Norditropin, Norflex, Norgesic, Nuvaing, Oxetine, Paracodol, Phensedyl, Primotestone, Progyluton, Prothiaden, Proviron, Prozac, Remeron, Revacod, Rhinotussel, Riaphan, Roaccutane, Robaxin, Robaxisal, Robitussin-CF, Romilar, Saizen, Salipax, Sandostatin, Saroten, Sedofan DM, Sedofan-P, Seroxat, Serzone, Sirdalud, Somadryl compound, St Joseph cough, Sterandryl, Stivane, Surmontil, Sustanon, Tamiflu, Ticlid, Tixylix, Tofranil, Trexan, Tripofed dm, Trisequens, Tryptizol, Tuscalman, Tussifin with codeine, Unified DM, Vesanoid, Virormone, Zoloft

While every effort has been made to verify the contents of this list, where in doubt, we advise travellers to check their medication with the UAE consulate before travel.

Fair Trials International  recommend on their web site that for further information you should contact: UAE Embassy Medical Department 71 Harley Street, LONDON, W1G 8DE Phone: 02074866281

Related: Other interesting and informative articles

Dubai sights:  “A day in Dubai”, with an interesting way of seeing the city.

Similar drug information for Singapore: “Singapore risks: medicines, drugs, death sentences and tourism”.

Dubai

Dubai is good for a stopover and has first-world facilities at the airport for transit purposes.

There is such a lot to see in Dubai, we picked out what we think is genuinely worthwhile.  Though it is well regarded by some for shopping we found it limited in choice in comparison with, say, Hong Kong, and while there is undoubtedly value to be found in the souks, it may take some searching.

Dubai Museum

The museum is in the Al Fahidi Fort which dates back to the eighteenth century and lays claim to being the oldest building in Dubai.  There are artefacts on display in the rooms around the courtyard including military weaponry of old and traditional clothing.  Heading downstairs, there are underground displays that include dioramas of life in Dubai before its current status as an ultra modern city with skyscrapers and many shopping malls.

Burj Khalifa

The Burj Khalifa holds the title of tallest building in the world.  As you may expect, there are already plans being hatched in a number of countries to take that crown away.  Certainly it is a worthwhile photo opportunity and if you have a head for heights you can go zoom up to the observation deck on a 10-meter-a-second elevator.  The observation deck is at a very heady level 124 storeys above ground.  There are two shops that sell souvenirs, though you can also buy from another souvenir shop in Dubai Mall below.  Though you can buy yourself a ticket on-the-spot , if you pre-book online 48 hours ahead of time you can save yourself 75% of the admission price!  Tickets bought on the day cost AED400.  The AED100 ticket gives you admission on a specified day at the time you selected when booking.  Tickets can be booked online at the Burj Khalifa website by clicking here.

Gold Souk

Souks are traditional markets in Dubai.  The Gold Souk in particular is worth a visit as it is unlikely that the average person, before seeing it, has seen so much gold in one place in their lifetime.  It is situated in Deira, close to the fish and vegetable market.  This is usually included on city sightseeing tours and the guide will let you do a bit of exploring and some haggling and then you have to find your own way back to the where all the tour busses are parked.  Crossing the roads can be hazardous.

Dinner Dhow Cruise

On board a dinner Dhow cruise in Dubai

This is a great way to end off the evening.  An evening cruise onboard a traditional dhow (perhaps safer because they are modern fishing boats that have been made to look like dhows), which includes dinner, one or two soft drinks and entertainment afterwards.  On the cruise I was on, the entertainment consisted of a Chinese comedian who performed tricks.  It was quaint, but the “vibe” onboard is really good.  We took photos of a passing dhow covered in blue lights.  As we did so, many flashes of light came from it – they were photographing us at the same time!  You are collected from your hotel around 7pm and return around 10:30pm.

If you are the more adventurous type, you can take a desert safari that includes dune riding (being driven hell-bent over the dunes in a 4×4), followed by traditional face-painting and ending off with a barbecue in a Bedouin tent.  This safari starts at around 3pm daily.  Either the cruise or desert safari cost around USD60 per person, which is good value.

Travel tips Dubai

It is advisable to dress modestly.  Islamic custom dictates that both men and women should be covered from the ankle to the neck.  Strappy tops, mini skirts, tight-fitting or revealing clothing of any sort should be avoided by women.  Or men, come to think of it.  While foreigners are treated more tolerantly than it other states in the region (there is even a Hindu temple  near the Grand Mosque), if you want to avoid somewhat unpleasant attention from certain of the male populace, it will be best to avoid “immodest” apparel, irrespective of how acceptable it may be back home.

Just being a foreigner can already be sufficient to attract unwanted male attention and we found that men at the airport gave you a very direct once-over and did not care that everyone noticed.  One taxi-driver (in keeping with nearly all of the service industries, not a native of Dubai) was flirtatious to the point of being creepy.

The heat is quite oppressive and carrying a bottle of water with you while sightseeing will help you to avoid dehydration.

Note: The author travelled to Dubai as a guest of Emirates Airlines as part of an industry familiarisation group.  Excursions were selected and paid for by the author.

Ultra Luxury Aircraft seats Picture credit: © 2011 by BBDC Berra Blanquer Design Consultants, Paris

Often, the armrests on these seats cannot be moved, as the tray tables are stored on the side of them. If you have skinny hips, then that’s cool. If not…

They almost always are in much closer proximity to a lavatory than anywhere else on board. For some of us, this is not a detraction. For others of us, however, having a queue at every feeding time, blocking our way out of our seat, could cause some excitement.

Bulkhead seats attract travellers with babies. Why? Because that is where most of the bassinet [a "basket" used to hold a baby] seats are. Hence, it won’t be the quietest part of the jet.

The legroom, though, is often good, and therefore a compensation worth considering.

On a flight from Dubai to Beijing in May 2010, my sister and I witnessed an unusual scene. We were sitting three rows back from a bulkhead row, where a lively conversation was under-way between a young couple and three stewardesses. What had caused the commotion? The fact that the couple, who had four babies with them, had managed the feat of boarding, and going through all the security points, whilst not having tickets for two of the babies, nor enough laps to house all four. The result? Two passengers volunteered to hold the extra two for the seven-hour flight!

Our conclusion? Very generous. But most of us would probably not want to have to be in the situation of having to do the same, hey? But, if you are wanting sympathy, travel with an infant. Any baby will do, it doesn’t have to be your own!